Let’s get right to it.
There were about 35 people in the cooking class. There were only five males. There was only one American. In the beginning it was a little confusing because people kept speaking in Korean and I wasn’t exactly sure what to do at the beginning (my group got split in two and then the other two people got put on a special “vegetable-cutting team” which left me as the lone American with a stupid look on his face). After a while, when I got stuff to do and some of the Koreans actually spoke Japanese for a bit, it was a bit more fun. I talked to a few people I wouldn’t have met outside the class, including a Korean from another level 3 class who said my pronunciation was a lot better than the other Americans in his class (so many compliments on pronunciation! how much of it is just because they expect any American who opens their mouth to have a terrible accent?). There were also some level 1 Koreans and one Chinese kid who struck up a conversation. Talking to level 1 people is a huge confidence booster. It really makes it feel like you’ve learned something. The opposite is true when you talk to a ward worker and attempt to register for health insurance.
We made two dishes: Cheesecake and Shabu-shabu. The work was spread out over so many people that I couldn’t really take what I learned and make these dishes myself without a recipe, but at the same time it didn’t feel like what I was doing was irrelevant. I crushed some cookies in order to make the crust at one point, I pulled the root of some vegetables off at another point, and boiled slices of meat near the end. While we were doing this, one of the teachers was making the rounds with a video camera, and I couldn’t help but notice that he was paying an awful lot of attention to me. The other problem with being the only American is that I was the most “exotic looking” person in the classroom. Sort of how if you’re one of the few ethnic minorities attending NNU, you’re guaranteed to wind up on the webpage at some point.
All the food was really good. We ate at tables of about 8 each, and I met yet another teacher that I want to have next semester. The Shabu Shabu was especially good when we added some spicy sauce that a Malaysian kid brought. Everyone was amazed that I knew how to use chopsticks and that I was using them right. Thanks, Mr. Eyer!
I went to bed pretty early on Friday because I didn’t want to take any chances of being too tired to enjoy the Ghibli museum the next morning.

In order to reach the Ghibli museum, you need to go about 20 minutes West on the JR Chuo line and get off at the Kichijoji station. From there, you have to (get to) walk through Inokashira park, which is the the most idyllic park I’ve seen in Tokyo yet.
My tickets were for 10:00 am, and I got there around 9:15, so I had some time to kill. I decided to get a rare breakfast at a nearby Lawsons. I got some grapes that only cost 120 yen, but it turns out that you have to pay more than that if you don’t want spiders in your grapes. People began lining up at about 9:30, and I soon got in the pack.

As expected from something that Hayao Miyazaki himself helped design, the museum had a ton of detail everywhere you looked. The building itself had an air of nostalgia to it that felt completely like all of the Ghibli film’s atmosphere. There were stained glass windows with scenes from the movies. Everything was perfectly clean. Rooms were painstakingly decorated to look like they were part of some old house. I was really impressed by a room that seemed to be a recreation of Miyazaki’s drawing room. There were books and pictures all over the walls with images from all over the world; all the influences for the images and stories from the films. There was a drawing table that had paper all over it, some character sketches taped above it, and a box filled with all sorts of different pencils on the floor beside it. It felt as if Miyazaki had just stepped out of the room for a moment.
There was a significant section of the museum dedicated to the birth of animation as a whole. I think my friend Ray back home would have started freaking out with joy if he would have seen it. One of my favorite exhibits showed a shelf with models of characters from the film. The same character was put in a row, each model a little different — the equivalent of frames of an animation. Next to the shelf, there was a glass box with all the models attached to rods spinning in a circle. At first it was just a blur, but then the light inside the box started strobing and it created the perfect illusion of motion. Each model looked as if it were moving as fluidly as the animation from the films.
There was also a movie theater that showed short films made by Studio Ghibli, which rotate every month. This month was コロの大散歩 (Koro’s Big Walk), a story about a dog who gets lost. After the movie, I headed over to the gift shop. Although I didn’t buy anything, I was darn tempted. There was also a cafe that would be fun to go sometime, but I had already ate breakfast.
I didn’t get any pictures of the inside of the museum, but I will next time. Oh yes, there will be a next time.
After the museum, I decided to finally watch Harry Potter at the theater. Yes, it cost 1500 yen, but the theater was really nice. It was in English with Japanese subtitles, so understanding was no problem. Interestingly, they have assigned seats in the theaters. When you buy your tickets, they ask what section you want to sit in and then they give you an assigned seat number.
During the movie, I was struck by how quite Japanese filmgoers are. I hate going to the theater in America because, well, theatergoers are only slightly less obnoxious than dachshunds in heat. In Japan, you could easily forget that you were in a room with hundreds of other people. So it may have cost 1500 yen, but I felt like it was worth it. Oh yeah, the movie was good as well.
Nothing really special happened the rest of the weekend. Next week is Midterms, so I’ve been doing some studying and generally relaxing today. While I was sketching tonight, there was an earthquake! The room was visibly shaking and it lasted about a minute. It was never really bad enough to worry, but still a little disconcerting. Don’t worry too much about any catastrophic earthquakes happening while I’m over here. The bad ones happen on a pretty consistent about-every-70-years schedule, the most recent one being the 1995 Kobe earthquake. Based on that, it won’t be until about 2060 until we need to start worrying again.
EDIT: Okay, it turns out that earthquake was bigger than I thought. It was actually a 7.1 quake (the Kobe one was a 7.2), but it struck in the middle of the ocean about 200 miles away from Toyko (despite what the alarmist Fox News says about “Strong 7.1-Magnitude Earthquake Strikes Tokyo Area”). No Tsunami warning issued.
Beth
/ August 9, 2009I’m so glad the you are okay! Sorry I had to call you in such a panic … seeing the headline, “Strong 7.1-Magnitude Earthquake Strikes Tokyo Area”, is not what you want to read at 7:00 am! It was nice to hear your voice, though! I’m glad you had fun at the museum and that you enjoyed your movie experience. Wouldn’t it be great if American theaters switched to assigned seating and nobody spoke? It would be a dream!
Dad
/ August 9, 2009I love you analogies. I suspect that you telling us not to worry about earthquakes in Tokyo is not going to fly with Mom. I have been in one earthquake myself, it is a very weird feeling.
Erica
/ August 9, 2009I agree, your analogies are great! (I was going to try and make an analogy about your analogies, but the bar is way too high.)
Even though the earthquake was a ways away, I am SOOO glad you’re okay. I like you a little bit.
Can’t wait to see more pictures of the museum, and the grounds look great!
Mom
/ August 9, 2009Hey, Matt! Did you pick up any rocks? (hint hint) The garden sounds wonderful as was your description of the museum. It must be really well done if it seems he just stepped away from his drawing table. I’m glad you are going back again, and this time–go ahead and spring for something from the gift shop. You won’t be sorry!
Tyler Gossard
/ August 11, 2009Matt!
Are you still shaking from the earthquake?
Matt Henry
/ August 11, 2009So, there were two earthquakes in pretty quick succession. The most recent one was yesterday morning. It hit at about 5:30 AM. I woke up, stood in the corner of my room away from the windows, and then crawled back in bed and fell asleep pretty quickly.
So, no. I’m already jaded.
Largo Boff
/ August 12, 2009For various reasons, I find your blog an extremely biased representation of KCP International, and will set people up to come into the program hating the other American students as much as you do.
Just because the other American students didn’t come in with as much prior knowledge of the Japanese language and culture gives you no right to down grade them in intelligence and lump them together in one fat blob of clueless foreigners who are loud, rude and not as serious as you.
I do hope you leave this comment up so that other people who might be interested in the program can see the other view points of American students.
Matt Henry
/ August 12, 2009I’ve said on other occasions that I by no means hate the other Americans in the program. That’s not PR damage control — I was actually having a discussion with another American a few days ago who was dreading another culture classes because of the general attitude of the other Americans there. I think that in order to give an accurate idea of the program from an American point of view, the atmosphere you are constantly surrounded by and the stereotypes that you need to overcome need to be described. And yes, it’s biased. I mentioned in my very first post that I was a serious student and chose KCP because it was the hardest program I could find. My opinions and observations are going to be different from one who is just trying to enjoy a summer in Japan and decided to take a class while they were at it.
It’s not me that’s perpetuating this myth about Americans, you hear about it going in from official KCP literature. In our student handbook, we have a section talking about “the ugly American”, that we need to come in to the program with a chip on our shoulder and try to dispel. To me, who is constantly aware that every time a group of Americans enter a restaurant or subway they are being witnessed by many Japanese who are forming new ideas or reinforcing old ones based on our representative behavior as Americans, there is something to be desired in the group.
It’s a learning process for everybody involved. I’ve seen tremendous improvement in my fellow Americans since the initial days, to the point where I’m looking forward to spending the next weekend in Kamakura with them. It’s a learning process for me, too. I’m not always the most patient person when it comes to people who don’t attempt to follow rules. If you haven’t given up on my blog already, I’ll attempt to give a more nuanced impression of the Americans during the upcoming trip. It’s a subject that I think people deserve to know about coming into the program, so if I find myself embarrassed, I’m not going to pretend like I wasn’t. But I will try to mention the good things about the group that I may have neglected to accurately portray.
Thanks for taking the time to post your honest opinion.